The Death of Travel Writing

With every travel blog of modern-day “nomads”, the world becomes smaller and flatter. Ultimately, travel blogging is where travel writing goes to die.

Trails of Mauritania – chapter 1

Assane and his two travel companions are driving an old pickup truck from Spain to Senegal. It is a lucrative business, for those who like extended road trips and do not mind a bit of bureaucratic hassle here and there. The pickup is loaded with all sorts of stuff, but they find space for my backpack on the top, and squeeze me in on the back seat.

Cold, wet, and pretty great: rafting in Iceland

Up the heavens cold and steep; Turn when dawn comes over land, Over rapid, over sand, South away! and South away! Seek the sunlight and the day The entire barrel scene from second part of ’The Hobbit’ was CGI, and it is kind of disappointing – mainly for the actors, I gather. Imagine watching yourself…

How Travelling (Never Actually) Changes Us

No man ever steps in the same river twice. -Heraclitus Denial is not just a river in Egypt. -somebody totally said that 2014 was my year of returns. I revisited a lot of people I’d met back in 2009, during the jolly Dublin times. And back then we were completely not what we are now,…

Into the Borderlands: Between Baklava and ISIS

’Suruç, Suruç, I went to Suruç the other day’, I told the couple that happened to pick me up on the way from Göbekli Tepe to Urfa. Göbekli Tepe is the newly discovered archeological site and possibly the oldest temple on our planet, dating back to an ancient Neolithic civilization of 9,000-10,000 BC. Suruç, on the other hand,…

5 most annoying travel listicles

I’ve written some of those, because this is what travel agencies swoon over and want to see on their websites. Hell, hypertrophied versions of these lists are actually published as books. I can argue about the literary value of a text where each paragraph starts with a number, some of these lists can actually be…

Exploring Hipstanbul: Karaköy shenanigans

I cannot think of a better way to spend a summer night in Istanbul than to have a walk in the badly-lit creepy alleyways of Karaköy. Once part of the Galata district, a semi-autonomous Genoese colony within Constantinople, Karaköy used to be an important port, place where all cool Byzatine kids hung out and played….

Istanbul – Feriköy: the bazaar of bizarre things

Who doesn’t like buying junk? Golden junk, silver junk, paper junk, aluminum junk, steel junk, wooden junk and all other sorts of things you buy to personalize your living space and show off, elegantly and subtly. Antiquity stores, vintage flea markets, stockpiles of old stuff – whatever you call these places. They are awesome. Well…