The Death of Travel Writing

With every travel blog of modern-day “nomads”, the world becomes smaller and flatter. Ultimately, travel blogging is where travel writing goes to die.

From Syria to Poland: across the land and sea

I left too much and nothing at the same time. By “too much”, I mean almost all of my material possessions (except my laptop and some pieces of clothing), all the things and places I was attached to. By “nothing”, I mean that somehow I could detach myself from the things and places I loved.

Trails of Mauritania: The Train and I

The most disturbing thing about the train, is that it exists. That hundreds of Mauritanian workers and freelance merchants have to take it on a regular basis, like this, covered in dust and dirt. What for me was a one-off adventure, stuff to write stories about, for Mohamed and his family was just another commute to work.

Trails of Mauritania – chapter 1

Assane and his two travel companions are driving an old pickup truck from Spain to Senegal. It is a lucrative business, for those who like extended road trips and do not mind a bit of bureaucratic hassle here and there. The pickup is loaded with all sorts of stuff, but they find space for my backpack on the top, and squeeze me in on the back seat.

Don’t Panic: European Hitchhiking Trends of Our Days

The Heart of Gold’s Improbability Drive made it the most powerful and unpredictable ship in existence. There was nothing it couldn’t do, provided you knew exactly how improbable it was that the thing you wanted it to do would ever happen… ’The daaaaay is beauuuuutiful!’ he yelled into my face as soon as I scrambled…

How Travelling (Never Actually) Changes Us

No man ever steps in the same river twice. -Heraclitus Denial is not just a river in Egypt. -somebody totally said that 2014 was my year of returns. I revisited a lot of people I’d met back in 2009, during the jolly Dublin times. And back then we were completely not what we are now,…

Istiklal Avenue: the Digestive Tract of Istanbul

Cheesy guidebooks will call Istiklal Caddesi and Taksim ‘the heart of Istanbul’s nightlife’. I would rather compare it to a digestive tract. The more you come to Istanbul, the more thoroughly you get fermented and digested by Taksim’s juicy smells of roasted chestnuts and boiled mussels – the ultimate star-rated delicacy for alcohol-induced and unable…

Into the Borderlands: Between Baklava and ISIS

’Suruç, Suruç, I went to Suruç the other day’, I told the couple that happened to pick me up on the way from Göbekli Tepe to Urfa. Göbekli Tepe is the newly discovered archeological site and possibly the oldest temple on our planet, dating back to an ancient Neolithic civilization of 9,000-10,000 BC. Suruç, on the other hand,…